Masai Mara

Having conquered the mountain, it was now time for the biggest tourist attraction in Kenya: Masai Mara, the famous national park on the border to Tanzania (changes name to Serengeti in T) where the Masai people live. This time our visitor was Ingeborg's father. We arrived Sunday evening, just in time to visit a nearby Masai village. The Masai people are world famous for their nomadic life, cattle, lion hunting and bright red/orange clothes that they wrap around themselves. Not so famous outside Kenya are the Masai's disregard for Kenyan laws; they still openly practices female circumcision, keep many children out of school and marry off the women at a very young age. Still interesting to see how they live, very differently from any other village I've visited in Kenya. On the picture are three masai warriors who dance the welcoming dance - in this part they prove their strength by jumping as high up as they can while making grunting noises.

On Monday we had a full day of game driving in the park, a great day! The landscape is breathtaking, just like being in one of those movies you've seen. Masai Mara is maybe most famous for the wildebeest migration that takes place every year as millions of wildebeest cross rivers and walk miles in search of green grass. We didn't actually see them crossing the river, but the thousands we saw were still quite impressive. Many og them had crossed the river a few days ago, dead wildebeest lay in the river, others were half eaten by crocodiles.

Apart from wildebeest we saw several lions, two cheetahs, a leopard, many elephants, hippos, giraffes, crocodiles, a number of different gazelles, monkeys, zebras, birds - we were lucky! Yesterday we had a drive in the morning before we drove to Nairobi.

Kari, Aberdare and Lord Baden Powell

Our mutual friend Kari have been visiting us, it was great having her here! She stayed for three weeks and got to see quite a bit of the country. Apart from coming with us to Mount Kenya, we also travelled to Aberdare National Park. We spent a night in the famous Treetops Hotel, a hotel inside the park. Meters away from the hotel is a waterhole where the wild animals come at night to drink. Whether the waterhole was constructed next to the hotel or if it was the other way around I don’t know, probably the first, however, for a touristy thing it’s a great one! A big group of elephants (I counted 15 individuals) showed up around 7 pm and stayed for a few hours, leaving us plenty of time to take pictures while staying on the roof terrace of the hotel. In addition to elephants, a couple of rhinos, some bushbucks, warthogs and buffalos also showed up. Before dinner we had a game drive in the park, and although the scenery was by far the most beautiful I’ve seen in a park in Kenya, not too many animals wanted to show themselves during daytime.

Aberdare National Park is not far from Nyeri, which was the town where the founder of the scout movement Lord Baden Powell lived and worked for major parts of his life. And being once – in fact, for 10 years! - a girl scout myself (yes, I know that it’s supposed to be boy scout or girl guide, but scout sounds much better, so I’ll use that), a moment in silence and remembrance of the great man was needed.

On our way home from Aberdare we stopped in Nyahururu, a small town famous only for its waterfall: Thomson’s Falls. We came, saw, spent a night there and left.

Mount Kenya

I am a big fan of writing chronologically, but this time I'll make an exception: I'll start with our adventures of the last week, when we climbed Mount Kenya. A lot can be said about this trip, however, I can't describe everything that happened and have therefore decided to give my experiences of the trip only. Read Inga's blog to get her story, which is quite different from mine.

Monday morning we started off from Nairobi, us being Ingeborg, her boyfriend Pablo, our good friend Kari and me. Our guide for the trip was George whom we met in Naivasha a few months ago. After sorting out where to stay for the night in Nanyuki, when and where to meet the following morning, and paying for everything, we went to bed. Tuesday morning we drove off from Nanyuki to Sirimon gate, an hours drive away - should be less, but large quantities of rain had turned the last 9 km of the road up to the gate into a gigantic mud slide, going in the wrong direction. Our 4WD got stuck several times, but finally we made it. We started our walk around noon, the first day is a short walk, approx 3 hours only on broad mud roads. Constant rain the first day was boring, but not much can be done about weather issues like that. We arrived Old Moses hut in the afternoon, and our chefs and porters prepared food for us, tea/coffee, popcorn and biscuits to start with, later dinner and fruits. The hut was cold, no need to take of any clothes except boots and jacket before jumping into our sleeping bags.

Wednesday we were woken up at 0615, had our breakfast, packed our things and set off again. No rain that day, but heavy clouds limited our view most of the way. A much longer walk this time, it took us about 8 hours to reach Shipton hut. The landscape was beautiful, but, being a Norwegian, I can't honestly say that it was more stunning than a walk in, say, Ryfylkeheiene. What was amazing was the view of the mountain peaks, completely different from the Norwegian mountains. And knowing that you're 4000 meters above sea level also adds a thrill to it all.

Thursday morning we were woken up at 0300 (!). Kari had got a serious attack of altitude sickness (as mentioned, a lot more can be said about this trip than what I'm telling here) and had to go down immediately, and Inga and Pablo decided to go with her and George the guide. I continued to the top with George's co-guide Wilson. We started walking at 0345 and reached the top, Point Lenana (4985 m above sea level), at 0605. The moon was almost full, meaning there was no need for a torch. Climbing Africa's second highest mountain in moonlight and complete silence was incredible, definitely the highlight of the whole trip. At the top pictures were taken while we watched the sunrise. Amazing. Recommended! From there it was downhill all the was back to Sirimon gate, with stops at Shipton hut for breakfast and lunch at Old Moses hut. I met with the Inga, Pablo and Kari back in Nanyuki, and luckily, Kari had fully recovered as soon as she got to a lower altitude.


To me, the trip was excellent and recommendable, but, understandably, not that great for the rest of my group. So take great care if any of you consider doing the same thing. And another warning also: An agressive, male elephant has made life miserable for several tourists lately, even in the last week while we were there. He is also said to have killed two people, but you shouldn't rely entirely on that information. Anyway, we didn't meet him at all, so he was of no trouble to us.